Toledo Gate
We ate an early breakfast at our hotel and then headed to the metro station up the street. Merrie had mapped out our first subway adventure but had misread the map. I caught onto the subway number/color system before she did, probably because this was her first trip to Europe but I had had previous experience with European subways. After a small misadventure of following the wrong directions from a fellow subway rider, we did make it to the Estacion sur Autobuses (the bus station). Henceforth, Merrie was to be in charge of street directions and I was to be in charge of taking the metro. There were more buses than trains to Toledo (in Spain, it is pronounced Toe–lay–do) from Madrid, so we decided to take a bus––both very easy to do with Rick Steves’ instructions. Either way takes about 1 1/4 hours, but the new AVE (high speed) train should be in operation soon, cutting the time down to about 1/4 hour. We were in time to take the 10 a.m. bus––roundtrip fare only 8,30 euros. From the Toledo bus station, we took a local bus to the main plaza. The first views that you get of medieval Toledo are spectacular, but the bus travels so fast that you really only get glimpses here and there and there is no time to take any photos. The only way really to fully enjoy these views is to hike up the very steep circular route to the main town, but you may not have enough energy left to do anything else after you reach the top. Or else you can save enough energy at the end of your day here and hike down the hill and keep looking backward. The photo of this gate to Toledo was taken later in the day.
Toledo Gate
Toledo Street
This photo shows one of the streets that you would hike up to reach the top.
Toledo Street
Plaza Zocodover
The city bus dropped us off at Plaza Zocodover, Toledo’s main square. We had coffee here––cafe con leche (coffee with milk) for me and cafe solo (expresso, no milk) for Merrie. Next, we headed for the Toledo Cathedral, Toledo’s main sight. In the past, Toledo has served as a Roman transportation center, a Visigothic capital, and a Moorish center before being conquered by the Christians. It was Spain’s capital until 1561 and today is a Spanish National Monument.
Plaza Zocodover
On Our Way to the Toledo Cathedral
You can see the bell tower of the Cathedral in the middle of the photo.
On Our Way to the Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral
The Cathedral is so tightly surrounded by other buildings that we lost view of the bell tower and asked directions to the Cathedral. The directions were correct but not to the tourist door and we had to walk back up the steep street and walk around some more buildings to find the right entrance. I have put my Toledo Cathedral photos on a slide show on this website: Go to Slide Shows, Western Europe, Spain–2, “Toledo: Toledo Cathedral.”
Toledo Cathedral
In Front of the Toledo Cathedral
The plaza in front of the Cathedral.
In Front of the Toledo Cathedral
In Front of the Toledo Cathedral
Merrie asked these men sitting on a bench in the plaza if she could take their photo. They said yes, so I took one also. You see similar scenes throughout Spain.
In Front of the Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral
Interesting bridge between a building and the Cathedral. We missed this passageway to the Cathedral on our way here.
Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cathedral
The Cathedral. It is so boxed in that you cannot take a photo of the whole front of it. More photos of the front on are on the slide show.
Toledo Cathedral
Toledo Cafe
We spent much time inside the Cathedral and then sat down at this cafe near the Cathedral to eat lunch.
Toledo Cafe
Toledo Cafe
The cafe’s tapas menu (we were able to get an English–language menu). We chose shrimp in garlic sauce as our tapa, which was delicious. It came with bread and chips.
Toledo Cafe
Toledo Cafe
The Cafe’s regular menu. We also ordered gazpacho soup, which Merrie liked and I didn’t.
Toledo Cafe
Toledo Cafe
The gazpacho soup.
Toledo Cafe
Toledo Cafe
The tiled wall inside the cafe. You see many beautiful tiles in Spain.
Toledo Cafe
Toledo
After eating, we walked back to the Plaza Zocodover. This is one of the buildings that we passed on our walk––actually, it was across from the cafe.
Toledo
Toledo
Another building that we passed.
Toledo
Toledo
A street that we walked up.
Toledo
Toledo
Some more buildings.
Toledo
Toledo
A shopping street. I had stopped at a store on this street on our way to the Cathedral. One of my sons was in Toledo last year and had bought a decorated pitcher but he wished that he had bought cups to go with it. He didn’t remember the name of the store or exactly where it was located––only somewhere near the Cathedral. But I found it easily as some pottery in its window matched the photo of the pitcher that I had taken with me. However, the store didn’t have any matching cups.
Toledo
Toledo
Fans for sale. They are sold throughout Spain.
Toledo
Toledo
A cafe that we passed.
Toledo
Toledo
Back at the Plaza Zocodover. We wanted to get on a tram here that would give us a ride around the outside of the city. However, we just missed it and would have to wait for the next one.
Toledo
Toledo
While waiting, we continued our walk. Street off the Plaza Zocodover.
Toledo
Toledo
Building facing the Plaza Zocodover.
Toledo
Toledo
A closer–up view.
Toledo
Toledo
The clock says it is now 3:05 p.m.
Toledo
Toledo
View through the arch.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view through the arch.
Toledo
Toledo
Statue of Miguel de Cervantes, the great Spanish writer, 1547–1616, on the other side of the arch.
Toledo
Toledo
Looking back to the Plaza Zocodover from the other side of the arch. That’s Merrie in the middle of the arch.
Toledo
Toledo
We decided next to visit the Alcazar––the building in the middle of the photo––on the hill above the Plaza Zocodover. An alcazar is a former imperial residence.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view of the Alcazar. However, the Alcazar was closed for renovations. When it reopens, it will be the National Military Museum.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view of the Alcazar.
Toledo
Toledo
Side street near the Alcazar.
Toledo
Toledo
Entrance to another square, near the Alcazar.
Toledo
Toledo
View of the Toledo Cathedral though an opening in the square.
Toledo
Toledo
A closer–up view.
Toledo
Toledo
More of the square.
Toledo
Toledo
Bell tower of another church.
Toledo
Toledo
Back at the Plaza Zocodover. The tram awaits us.
Toledo
Toledo
The tram took us down the circular route that we came up in the city bus. The photo is of a building outside the city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view outside the city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
And another view.
Toledo
Toledo
We are now being driven around the back of the city. The Alcazar is on top of the hill. The river is the Tajo River.
Toledo
Toledo
The other side of the Tajo River.
Toledo
Toledo
The Alcazar on the left and a city gate and city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view of the Alcazar.
Toledo
Toledo
We are now behind the Alcazar on the hill. To the left, you can see the bell tower of the Toledo Cathedral.
Toledo
Toledo
Farther to the left.
Toledo
Toledo
Still farther left, with good views both of the Alcazar and the Cathedral.
Toledo
Toledo
Still farther left.
Toledo
Toledo
And still farther left.
Toledo
Toledo
Still farther left, with view of a city gate.
Toledo
Toledo
Another view of a city gate. Note all the tour buses lined up on the street behind it.
Toledo
Toledo
A street outside the city gates and part of the city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
More of the city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
More of the city walls.
Toledo
Toledo
And still more.
Toledo
Toledo
Back again at the Plaza Zocodover.
Toledo
Toledo
It is now about 5 p.m. and I am both very hungry and very tired. I didn’t want to go through the hassle of sitting down at a cafe to eat and that McDonald’s in this photo looked very inviting. I decided right then and there not to be a tourist snob anymore about eating at a McDonald’s when in Europe.
Toledo
Toledo
I had a Big Mac (seems to be called a Big Mac whether in the U.S. or in Spain), palatas fritas, and a Coke Light––under 5 euros and it really tasted very good. Merrie had an ensalada. We were very tired and decided to travel back to Madrid. We got back to our hotel about 8 p.m. and ate a snack at our hotel bar. But Toledo really deserves a good deal of time and I don’t even know if you can see even most of what it offers on a day trip, even if you arrive here early and full of energy. We missed visits to some chapels, a monastery, some museums, walks wandering along more of its old streets, and a great walk at least down the big hill.
