Globus Portugal in Depth 2008 Tour
We left Lisbon this morning to begin a circular trip around Portugal (see map). Today was what you would call a very full day: first to Obidos, a white–washed medieval town; then to Alcobaca to visit a medieval church, the largest church in Portugal; next to the seaside town of Nazare for a lunch break; then to the shrine at Fatima; and, lastly, to Tomar, another town of great history and where we would spend the night. After reviewing all the photos I took today, it was hard to believe that we saw so many wonders in just one day.
Globus Portugal in Depth 2008 Tour
Countryside on Way to Obidos
Photo: The beautiful Portugal countryside that we drove through.
Countryside on Way to Obidos
Obidos
Our first view of the town of Obidos, with its castle at the top of the hill.
Obidos
Obidos
Obidos was founded by the Celts about 300 B.C. and then ruled by the Visigoths, Romans, and Moors. On 1282, after the Moors were defeated, King Dinis gave Obidos as a wedding present to his bride Isabel of Aragon. Today, Obidos is a picture–perfect white–washed medieval town. House next to the castle entrance.
Obidos
Obidos
We had to wait for a number of cars to exit the gate before we could safely proceed––no pedestrian walkway.
Obidos
Obidos
The town of Obidos through the gate.
Obidos
Obidos
Walking into the town.
Obidos
Obidos
Past white–washed buildings. The colors blue and yellow are used throughout Portugal.
Obidos
Obidos
A pretty house.
Obidos
Obidos
One of the old churches in Obidos.
Obidos
Obidos
Beautiful wisteria vine on the side of a building.
Obidos
Obidos
Another church from medieval times.
Obidos
Obidos
The Church of Santa Maria with the town’s pillory in the front of the photo. The pillory is decorated with a fishnet, which was the emblem of Dona Leonor, the wife of King Joao II, chosen in honor of the fishermen who had tried to save her son from drowning. King Afonso V married his cousin Isabel in this church––he was 10 years old and she was 8.
Obidos
Obidos
The pillory seen from the opposite direction.
Obidos
Obidos
Close–up of statues on the front of the church.
Obidos
Obidos
Inside the Church of Santa Maria with its 17th century tiles.
Obidos
Obidos
Inside the church.
Obidos
Obidos
Its ceiling.
Obidos
Obidos
Walking up to the castle.
Obidos
Obidos
All throughout Portugal, you will see unusual chimneys, the styles depending on the area.
Obidos
Obidos
Some areas have more than one style.
Obidos
Obidos
Another medieval church, this one next to the castle.
Obidos
Obidos
The castle entrance.
Obidos
Obidos
The castle. It was rebuilt by King Afonso Henriques after he took the town from the Moors in 1148.
Obidos
Obidos
The ramparts. The castle walls date back to the 14th century.
Obidos
Obidos
There wasn’t much to see inside the castle and the wind was fierce up here, so I started to walk back down the hill.
Obidos
Obidos
Entrance to another castle pousada.
Obidos
Obidos
Looking down the hill at the town.
Obidos
Obidos
Tile murals for sale at a souvenir store.
Obidos
Obidos
More souvenirs.
Obidos
Obidos
This rooster is a national symbol of Portugal, called “The Cock of Barcelos.” The legend: A man was accused of theft, but he protested his innocence in court. The judge gave him one chance to prove his innocence. Seeing a cock in a basket in the courtroom, he said, “If I am innocent the cock will crow.” It did and he was allowed to go free. Another version: A man was at a dinner party when he was accused of stealing and, hence, was sentenced to death. The man said that if he was hanged for the crime that he didn’t commit the cooked chicken would get up to crow. It did and the man’s life was saved at the last minute.
Obidos
Obidos
Walking back through the gate at the entrance to the town.
Obidos
Obidos
An old woman is embroidering some cloth in the gate.
Obidos
Obidos
Close–up.
Obidos
Obidos
Tile mural on the wall in the gate entrance.
Obidos
Obidos
I had just enough time to sample the Ginga D’Obidos.
Obidos
Obidos
Here you can ask to have it served in a chocolate cup––after you drink the ginga (made from ginga berries and grappa), you can eat the cup. Very good.
Obidos
Alcobaca
After a short drive, our next stop was at the Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Alcobaca, which is Portugal’s largest church. In 1147, King Afonso Henriques defeated the Moors at Santarem. To commerate the victory, he built this church for the Cistercian order. The church was completed in 1223.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The exquisite Baroque front of the church.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Inside the church. Note the mirror tiles on the floor at the right.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
This is a photo of the inside of the church––compare this with the next photo.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The church seen looking down at the mirror tiles. I have not seen this done elsewhere before and I found it quite spectacular.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Again, a photo taken inside the church.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Seen looking at the mirror tiles.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
If you look closely, you will see similar markings in many of the churches––they are the signatures of the workers who laid the stones.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The tomb at the front of the photo is the tomb of Ines de Castro and the one at the rear of the photo is the tomb of King Pedro I. King Afonso IV forced Pedro, his son, to marry Constanza, but he was in love with Ines. After Constanza died, Pedro went to live with Ines, but his father thought that her family was dangerous to the throne, so he had Ines murdered. When Alfonso died and Pedro became king, Pedro had Ines’ body exhumed and he, literally, placed her on the throne and crowned her. He also murdered her murderers and it is said that he ate their hearts.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The tomb of Pedro I. Note the lions holding up the tomb––lions represent kings.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Detail of the tomb.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The top back of the tomb.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Close–up.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Another close–up, of Pedro’s head and of the angels.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The tomb of Ines de Castro.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
The statues holding up her tomb. They represent her murderers.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Close–up of her tomb.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
A beautiful chapel in the church.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Buildings in the square on the side of the church.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Walking past the back of the church.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Statue seen walking back to the bus.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
Close–up of the top of the building seen in the last photo. Note the reflections on the windows.
Alcobaca
Alcobaca
More Cocks of Barcelos for sale.
Alcobaca
Nazare
Another short drive and we were in Nazare for a lunch break. For all our lunches on the Globus tour except for one, we went into towns. We only ate at a roadside complex once. Nazare is a fishing village and a popular summer resort. It got its name from a statue of the Virgin Mary being brought here in the 4th century by a monk from Nazareth. Photo: the main square in Nazare.
Nazare
Nazare
I showed Rui (our Globus guide) a photo of a church in an Eyewitness travel guide that I had brought with me and asked where the church was. Rui said up on top of the cliff in Sitio, reached by a funicular.
Nazare
Nazare
I walked up the hill past this pretty section of town to find the funicular.
Nazare
Nazare
This funicular that climbs 360 feet (110 m) up the hill was built in 1889. However, its equipment has been updated. The funicular departs about every 15 minutes or so and costs 90 cents each way.
Nazare
Nazare
Going up the hill. There are no turnarounds, so, going up, the conductor sits at the top of the car and the passengers face downhill. The ride was relatively quick and not scary.
Nazare
Nazare
At the top, I asked directions to the church (actually, I did this in sign language, making a cross with two fingers). This photo is of the beautiful Nossa Senora da Nazare. I didn’t go inside it––I didn’t want to attempt those stairs.
Nazare
Nazare
A closer–up view of the church.
Nazare
Nazare
And a side view.
Nazare
Nazare
The square next to the church. Women dressed in native costumes were selling nuts and dried fruit.
Nazare
Nazare
One of the woman (at the other side of the square).
Nazare
Nazare
I didn’t know if these woman would want their pictures taken, so I first bought some cashews from this woman and then asked her if I could take her photo.
Nazare
Nazare
I also got this closer–up photo of the woman two photos back. I didn’t buy anything from her. Actually, I had mistaken her for the woman in the last photo and asked her for another photo.
Nazare
Nazare
Very large souvenir store.
Nazare
Nazare
One of the special souvenirs to buy here are dolls dressed in traditional Nazare costumes––both of the fishermen and of the fishermen’s wives.
Nazare
Nazare
Our Lady of Nazare Chapel (Ermida da Memoria) at the edge of the cliff. Legend has it that this is where the Virgin Mary, in 1182, saved Dom Fuas Roupinho and his horse from falling over the cliff when he was chasing a deer in a sea mist.
Nazare
Nazare
View of Nazare below from the cliff.
Nazare
Nazare
A view of the beach below.
Nazare
Nazare
I had to make a decision whether to eat up on top of the cliff at “O Gordo” or go back down on the funicular and try to find a place of eat below. I decided on “O Gordo.” I ordered a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, which turned out to be the best sandwich I had in Portugal, French fries (they had a picture of the fries and I couldn’t resist), coffee, and pastry––delicious. The fries came after I had started the pastry but I ate a few anyway. Total: 6 euros.
Nazare
Nazare
Back on the funicular going down. Another funicular is on the way up.
Nazare
Nazare
I was a little worried that I would not be back in time to meet the group, but I was actually a bit early. Photo: the cobblestoned boardwalk.
Nazare
Nazare
The widows of Nazare are well known for doning all–black clothing––shoes, stockings, coats, head scarves, etc. They are quite a contrast to the bright clothing of the fishermen’s wives and also to the colors of this seaside town. Not a good photo, but one of the widows. The rest of this day appears on the next album.
